1cm (3/8") seam allowance throughout
Pins and/or sewing clips can be and are used interchangeably throughout this (and all) projects. Use whichever you have on hand, and whichever feels more comfortable to you.
Cut four squares, 4.5" - two for the outside (I used one plain and one patterned), two for the lining.
Cut one rectangle 3" x 4.5" - this will be for the back of the card slots
Cut one rectangle 3" x 23" - this will be for the card slots.
Cut one rectangle 3/8" (1cm) x 7.5" - preferably in non fraying fabric like vinyl, leather, or cork - this will be to secure the card slots
Take one zip (or continuous zip tape) 4.5" or longer - and a complementary zip pull if required.
On the back of your long (23") rectangle, mark along the full height of the fabric at: 4", 3", 3.5", 3", 3.5", 3", 3".
Lay the rectangle down with the 4" mark to your left, fold the fabric RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER along the 4" line. Press (with an iron, with your finger, or with a seam roller - pick whichever is most suitable for your fabric). Find the next marker, 3" away. Fold the fabric WRONG SIDES TOGETHER along the 3" line. Press.
Find the next marker, 3.5" away. Fold the fabric RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER along the 3.5" line. Press. Find the next marker, 3" away. Fold the fabric WRONG SIDES TOGETHER along the 3" line. Press.
Find the next marker, 3.5" away. Fold the fabric RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER along the 3.5" line. Press. Find the next marker, 3" away. Fold the fabric WRONG SIDES TOGETHER along the 3" line. Press.
Your fabric should now be concertina folded and measure 4.5" long!
Give your folded fabric a really good press, iron if possible. Place your 3"×4.5" rectangle RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER with the folded fabric. Sew along the long (4.5") length - if your fabric is directional, you want to sew along the top. Trim your seam allowance in half and fold the seam and lining back so now the folds and lining are wrong sides together. Press.
Place one outer (I used a plain) square face up, place your card slots on top, face up, aligning bottom and side raw edges. The lining of the card slots should be right sides together with the outer, and there should be no raw edges other than at the sides. Baste in place along the sides and bottom. This will now be treated as one ‘outer’.
Add a zip pull onto your zip if using continuous zipper tape. If using a normal zip, trim to 4.5” making sure there is a zipper pull on your section of zip! Take one end of your zip and pinch the zip tape (the bit of fabric next to the zip) to create a 90’ fold in the zip. Pin in place. Repeat for the other three ends of zip tape (at each end, of each side).
Lay one outer square face up, and place the zip, upside down (right sides together) at the top of the square (‘top’ being specifically important if your fabric is directional). There should be approximately 0.5” overhang at each end of the zip. Optional: baste (by machine, or hand) in place. Lay one of your lining pieces right sides together with your outer fabric. The zip should be sandwiched between the two. Sew along the entire top edge, taking care when sewing over the zip teeth at 0.5” and 4” along. Your sewing machine will (probably) be capable of sewing over a zip with plastic teeth, but take care and go slowly. If you have a zip with metal teeth it will likely snap a needle so hand crank and go super slow.
Flip the lining to the back, so the lining and main are wrong sides together and press.
Lay the second outer square face up, and place the raw side of the zip (with fabric attached to the other side) at the top of the square, right sides together. The main fabrics should be RST too, but they wont line up at the bottom (and that’s good)! Optional: baste. Lay the other lining piece right sides together with your outer fabric. The zip should be sandwiched between the two. Again, the two lining fabrics should be RST but not aligned. Sew along the entire top edge, taking care when sewing over the zip teeth at 0.5” and 4” along.
Flip the lining to the back, so the lining and main are wrong sides together and press.
Unzip your zip, just over half way. Pick up both outer pieces, and hold them right sides together. When you do this the two lining pieces should fall RST too. Lay it down, as it is, and mark a 3” gap centralised, along the bottom of the lining.
Take your strip of non fraying fabric and fold it WST (wrong sides together) to make a loop. Optional: baste the short ends together.
Place the raw edges, aligned with the raw edges of the main fabric, at the side with the open card slots, approx. 2” up from the base.
Sew, from one side of the gap, to the corner, pivot, up the side, onto the main fabric (taking care to avoid the zip at the join), to the corner, pivot, along the bottom of the main, pivot, along the side, past the zip and back down to the corner of the lining, pivoting, and stopping at the other end of the gap mark. Back stitch at the beginning and end well, as this seam is put under a lot of pressure when you pull it through. Trim your seam allowance in half all around EXCEPT where you haven’t sewn, and, if bulky, cut off the four corners.
Turn the bag right sides out through the hole in the lining, this will be fiddly. Take your time, use a point turner to flatten the corners, and check there are no holes (we’ve all been there, don’t take it personally!)
Tuck the raw edges of the turning hole to the inside and sew it closed. It can be hand sewn (ladder stitch) or with a machine (super close to the edge). Tuck in inside the main and flatten.
Use a snap or button to add a closure for the strap (to stop cards falling out).
And you’re done!! Enjoy your new purse!!
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