Aug 11, 20214 min read

Top Tips for Zips

With Fabraholic and Annabel Sews

Having spent the last five years teaching people how to sew, there are some things I hear A LOT; one of the most common misconceptions in the sewing world is that zips are hard to sew. Here are five top tips to get you set on your zip sewing journey.

Found this helpful? Tag us #fabraholic and #annabelsews when you share your makes, we'd love to see!!

1. Everyone was a beginner when they began

Here are my kids. Beautiful aren't they. Yup, I'm biased. They are two, four and six. What would your expectations be of them, if I asked them each to draw me a house? Would you expect the same level of competence from each of them, as you gave them all the same tools, the same instruction, and the same time frame?

I think not. Because you know (or at least assume) that this will be a task my six year old has competed, with assessment, critique and improvements given, at least 100 times; my four year old is still a little small for constructive criticism, but his output will (hopefully) be recognisable, as he has completed this task approx 20 times to date; the two year old won't have a clue, but will still be given lots of praise .

And back to zips. What are YOUR expectations of yourself the first time you try something new? Are you being fair to yourself? What would you tell a peer who was about to embark on their first zip sewing journey?!

2. Arm yourself with the tools you need to make your life easier

zip foot
long pins
wonder clips
zip tape/washaway sewing tape

Sewing a zip without a zipper foot is like try to mash potatoes with a spoon; it's achievable, but it won't give you a neat finish. In fact, you probably already have one in with your 'kit' that arrived when you bought your machine. If you don't have one, they are readily available on line, but make sure it looks like this. (Extra top tip DO NOT be tempted buy a multi pack of 'interesting' feet that you're sure will come in handy one day. They won't).

Next up, a fastening of sorts. You need something to hold your zip on top of your fabric while you sew, or it will slip and slide all over the place. If you decide to go for pins, pin up along the zip tape at 180°. If you decide to clip, clip along the zip tape at 90°. If you're sewing a zip into a stretch fabric, I recommend buying zip tape to stick your zip in place, and then clipping. Wash away zip tape is water soluble double sided sticky tape; it doesn't stretch (neither do zips - win win!) and it doesn't clog up your needles. If you're looking to purchase some, make sure it's a sewing specific variety, but brands are irrelevant.

3. Stop halfway (and a really nifty sewing machine hack)

As with most things in the sewing world, fabric and zips are sewn 'right sides facing' which means that the pretty side of the fabric should be face up on your desk, and the zipper should be upside down; you'll know this is right because you won't be able to see your zipper pull. In most circumstances, you want the raw edge of your fabric lined up with the outside edge of your zip tape. Pin or clip in place.

Always, always, ALWAYS start sewing with your zip unzipped half way. Use your fingers to 'feel' the edge of the zip and line this up with the edge of your zipper foot. You want your needle in the grove closest to your zip. Sew a straight stitch, and stop 1" before you get to your zipper pull; you'll be able to feel/see the bump. Lower your needle to it's lowest position, raise your presser foot, and pull the zipper pull past what you have already sewn (so, backwards). It doesn't matter if this ends up closing or opening your zip. Lower your presser foot, and continue sewing to the end of your zip.

Found that bit a bit tricky?! Felt like you just needed an extra three hands?! The lever that you use to raise and lower your presser foot has a third job; if you push it up when it is already raised, it goes even higher and gives you more room to manoeuvre your zip pulls.

4. Bigger is (nearly always) better

So, a pattern calls for an 11" zip. And you can only find 10" and 12", without spending an absolute fortune?! Unless you're sewing in an open ended zip for a coat or hoodie (in which case, you probably don't need this blog ) then all zips can be cut to size. I would usually sew in the full length zip along both sides of the zip tape; close the bag along the other sides and then trim off the excess. You can sew over plastic teeth zips, but sewing over metal zips isn't recommended. Take it super slow sewing over zips whether they are plastic or metal; there is a fair likelihood that at some point you'll snap a needle doing this.

5. Patterns are your friend

Having a peer reviewed and fully pattern tested pattern to your disposable is really useful! Free patterns are great, and you'll find loads online and on Pinterest, but I would always choose a pattern from a company that offers paid patterns, over one that only offers free patterns. Big pattern companies put a lot of time, effort and resources into making sure that the pattern pieces and instructions work before publishing.

I'll link a few of my favourite zippy projects below!