A guide to Fold Over Elastic - with fabric and FOE provided by Hazel and Blue Fabric
Patterns used - Waves and Wild speedy pants (unisex undies pattern) and Fab 4 You Zya
Let's start with the basics, what is FOE?
Fold over elastic is elastic manufactured with a ridge down the centre, to allow you to fold it. One half (the inside) is soft, and one side is, elastic-y and shiny. The soft side is sandwiched around the raw edges of your fabric, and the shiny side is on show. Depending on where you buy your FOE from, some comes pre folded and some comes flat; there isn't a better or worse option, but both require practice when first used.
How do I use it?
Lay your FOE with the soft side facing up and the shiny side facing down. On top of this, lay your fabric right side facing up. The wrong sides of both should be touching. Ensure half of the FOE is visible. Pin (don't clip) the FOE to the fabric, matching the top, bottom, and middle, and then stretching evenly in between. Use a zigzag stitch (standard width and length) to attach. It isn't necessary to back tack (secure your stitches at the beginning and end by reversing) as you'll be going over the stitches later. Stretch the elastic as necessary, but try your hardest not to stretch the fabric.
Fold the elastic back over itself and to the front (right side) of the fabric and clip in place, you can pin instead if you wish. Sew again, over your same line of stiches, trying to stay as close to the edge of the FOE as possible, without going over. If your garment looks stretched out, you can press and steam on a low heat - I would always suggest starting at a very low heat and increasing as necessary, always press on the reverse, and use oodles of steam instead of actual pressing,
What do I need to know?
If you're adding elastic to a pattern which doesn't suggest it (and therefore doesn't provide with measurements) it's important to measure the seam which you are covering. Depending on how much 'pull' you want, you would cut your FOE between 80% and 90%. FOE is very stretchy and doesn't have as much recovery as one might expect if you're used to working with elastic. For example, on adult period pants, you'd cut at 80%, but children don't like anything tight around their legs or waist so you'd opt for 90%. If a pattern gives measurements for a binding or band, you should be able to use their measurements or pattern pieces, but as with all things sewing, if you're unsure, make a toile in non-precious fabric first.
When and where can I use it?
I was given 2.5m of FOE for this blog, and I made a pair of age 4 Waves and Wild speedy pants, and an age 3 Zya dress by Fab 4 You. Neither of these patterns suggested FOE, but it works on both. I have less than 0.5m left. I have also used FOE as bralette straps, and both Patterns for Pirates Briar and the George and Ginger Switch it Up have FOE options.
Do I need to alter my pattern at all?
Patterns which aren't drafted for FOE may require a few tweaks in construction. We're going to look at the speedy pants here, for full instructions, these can be downloaded (for free) from the Waves and Wild website.
Sew the gusset to the front and back as per the instructions; I used an overlocker (aside - how beautiful is my pastel rainbow thread?!) but a stretch stitch on a sewing machine is perfectly adequate too. Baste, pin or clip the other end of the gusset in place. Measure the leg seam and cut your FOE to 90% (if you're feeling lazy, you can also do 90% of the measurements given for leg bands BUT make sure you use the pants measurement not the boxers.
At this point, the instructions tell you to sew the side seams. DO NOT DO THIS YET.
Lay your FOE with the soft side facing up and the shiny side facing down. On top of this, lay your fabric right side facing up. The wrong sides of both should be touching. Ensure half of the FOE is visible. Pin (don't clip) the FOE to the fabric, matching the top, bottom, and middle, and then stretching evenly in between. Use a zigzag stitch (standard width and length) to attach. It isn't necessary to back tack (secure your stitches at the beginning and end by reversing) as you'll be going over the stitches later. Stretch the elastic as necessary, but try your hardest not to stretch the fabric.
Fold the elastic back over itself and to the front (right side) of the fabric and clip in place, you can pin instead if you wish. Sew again, over your same line of stiches, trying to stay as close to the edge of the FOE as possible, without going over. If your garment looks stretched out, you can press and steam on a low heat - I would always suggest starting at a very low heat and increasing as necessary, always press on the reverse, and use oodles of steam instead of actual pressing,
Now, we will sew up our side seams. For the neatest finish, you want to make sure that where the leg bands meet, they are aligned. But, you want them aligned where your seam will be sewn, not necessarily at the raw edges. The pattern uses a 6mm seam allowance. I used a triple straight (stretch) stitch on my sewing machine as I find it easier to manipulate than the overlocker when precision is key.
Attach the waistband as instructed.
Do you have any questions for me?!
If I haven't answered any questions you had, please pop me an email, message, or use the Contact Us link on the website and I'll do my best to answer for you.
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